I started out making these in little 3oz paper cups but after deploying a couple of thousand of those during the testing phase in August, 2002, I tried muffin pans and now I make most of them this way. The only reason I still make a few in paper cups is so that I can shoot them, 200 yards, out of my Spudgun.
In a way, this non-lethal artillery piece is sort of like a back scratcher: sometimes you just can't quite get orgonite close enough to the target by tossing and this does the trick. Be careful not to do what one of our fellow spiritual road warriors did, though: he inadvertently shot a TB into one of those big, nasty ELF drum transmitters, right through the drumskin. I've used the Spudgun exclusively in gridding remote polluted areas because I didn't want the secret police's snooper minions to find them within throwing distance of the road.
Cbswork expounds on the benefits of overgifting, which is often required in key areas, like Los Angeles, where the satanic, occult/corporate world order had put an awful lot of stock in their Deadly Orgone Radiation generating infrastructure, not that it did them any good ;-)
He's done the bulk of his gifting work with many thousands of 3-Oz. Towerbusters, by the way. He, Carol and I sometimes get a chuckle at the notion that a few people have had that making a heroic single device will disable a whole lot of towers. We don't need to be 'saved' by anyone else's efforts, after all-we need to save ourselves, so I think it's appropriate that the infantry-style taking of territory by tower-to-tower gifting is the only one that works and it is, after all, the most empowering, confirming aspect of this effort. That's just part of growing up and a network develops through the same stages that a human being does. Consider all these new deathforce transmitters in your commuity as your golden opportunity to seize your freedom/responsibility birthright and also to provide a profoundly precious service (healing) to your community.
I'll now go over the muffin tray method, which can be applied to the paper cup method, of course:
1. I use non-stick muffin pans but of course the resin contracts as it cools, so even the cheaper ones work fine.
2. While you're in MalWart getting those pans, and if you don't have any little pieces of quartz on hand, go to the craft section and get the mesh bags of tumbled rocks (the smaller rocks). Pick out the quartz and other crystals. You can also get bits of quartz from the soil or streambed if you have a clue what to look for. The cloudy, even white, broken bits are just as good as a ten dollar Herkimer Diamond, of course, for this application.
I mention WalMart to show you that it's not hard to find ingredients.
3. Drop a small xtal in each muffin mold. I often use a broken just a dirty, broken crystal chip about the size of your little toenail but if you're new to this you likely won't feel confident doing this. My confidence is based on a couple of years of towerbusting experience, so I know that a TB with a funky little chip will bust an average Entropy tower and I'm stating it for the record.
4. Fill the molds almost to the top with loose metal. Remember that 3oz is sufficient and that the molds are each 4oz. I want you to get the absolute most bang for your hard-earned or even lazily-obtained buck. 3oz of orgonite in a holly or juniper bush is sufficient for busting most of the single transmitters you'll encounter and even for turning those frowns of a chapel-full of devil-hating churchgoers upside down.
5. Pour the resin in by stages until it comes almost up to the brim of the mold after you've put the metal and crystal in. If the metal is too fine to permit the resin to soak through before hardening, mix the metal with the catalyzed resin, then spoon it in like you're making cornbread. You're probably going to learn the hard way to mix in the catalyst first. I'm still learning that lesson from time to time ;-)
6. When I'm going to toss out a bunch in town, I paint them green and brown (camo scheme). You'll be surprised how difficult these are to find once they've been tossed.
1. Fold a piece of typing paper twice and then open it into a cone shape. Tape the overlap and underlap with masking tape to help it hold its shape.
2. After you've shaped it into a cone, put the opened cone upside down in a paper cup.
3. We cut a 26" length of 18 gauge copper wire and form it into a clockwise cone spiral (it resembles the tip of a big screw) so that it fits loosely inside the paper cone. You can make it pretty rough or get one conespiral bending forms. Orgone simply loves to run along and thru curved, orderly pathways. 26" works well for us but there's no specific reason for the length except Carol likes it. We haven't seen any evidence that 'lost cubits' or other specific measures are relevant to this work, by the way.
4. Put a big pinch of metal particles into the pointy end of the cone, right on top of the little end of the copper spiral. I like to use BBs (small, copper or zinc-coated ball bearings that American kids shoot from air rifles) for the tips of my HHgs but they're very heavy and expensive if you're making a lot of HHgs and TBs. The spherical form and also the plated zinc and copper over steel provide some pretty dynamic energy qualities but any meta waste from a machine shop is more than sufficient.
5. Shove a fat xtal (my abbreviation for 'crystal'), point down, into the metal so that it's standing up, then put a little more metal in to hold it in place. I use very cheap, funky-looking crystals for this which have one distinct end. Any form of quartz works fine, by the way, for any of the items mentioned in this document-amethyst, rose quartz, citrine, etc. Save the nice ones for personal devices, though, if you feel inclined to experiment with the dynamics of gemstones. For an HHg I'll use anything that's at least an inch long and a half inch thick with one distinct point. Gladys puts plenty of these in her 'per pound' orders, along with the towerbuster crystals.
6. Now pour enough catalyzed resin in to saturate the metal. If your metal particles are too fine for the resin to pour thru before it hardens, mix the stuff before you put it in the inverted cone-don't learn this the hard way, as I did (and still do ;-)! The level of resin and the level of metal after it's saturated needs to be about the same, otherwise you're wasting some resin. It's better to have metal sticking out of the bottom of the finished product than to have less metal than resin. It's the metal that does the work, apparently; the resin is the matrix.
7. We add a bit of garnets, hematite and crushed pyrite to the orgonite, sometimes; it's an optional process for this device but this is a tried and true combination of minerals for enhancing and grounding the effects of the material. If you've got a talent for this process, add whatever you like. If you don't have a feel for it, be aware that the improper combination of elements will reduce the effectiveness of your devices. There are books that can teach you the properties of gemstones and minerals and these properties are greatly enhanced by orgonite. My favorite, because it's based on a combination of intuitition and empirical testing, is Michael Gienger's CRYSTAL POWER, CRYSTAL HEALING. I don't personally care much for channeled literature because there's no science behind it. Science and spirituality are inseparable, in my opinion. Leaving one or the other out of our personal life leaves us either materialistic or superstitious but when they're in harmony, we're
empowered and intelligent.
8. Fill to the brim, in stages if necessary, with orgonite and when it's hard, it's finished. You can leave the paper on or peel it off. I leave the paper on and sometimes paint them green and brown with spraypaint if I won't be burying it and you'd be surprised how hard it is to see a camouflaged HHg once it's been put in a bush or other hiding place.
9. Notice that I'm not putting any additional crystals in the mix as we'd advised in earlier instructions. I simply found that using one bulky xtal in the point makes the other ones extraneous. I think the coil is important in this case. Save the fancy efforts for your personal devices.
1. Cut a length of 1 1/2 inch copper or aluminum pipe into 13” lengths
2. Thoroughly tape one end of each pipe closed. If you’re not thorough, resin will
leak out the bottom.
3. Temporarily tape or wire seven of the pipes together so that the whole will stand
up by itself with the taped ends at the bottom.
4. The orgonite ‘plug’ in the bottom of each EP needs to be at least five inches long,
so drop 2 or 3 oz of mixed orgonite in each pipe.
5. Select a suitable xtal for each pipe. We use xtals that are at least an inch long and
at least a quarter inch thick and have one distinct point.
6. Cut 13” of bare copper wire. We use 18 gauge wire but the point is to use wire that’s
thick enough to hold a shape and thin enough to work easily. Those coil forms that
Christy in Ireland makes are wonderful for making suitable coils.
7. After bending the wire to resemble the end of a big screw, just like was done for
the HHg, only smaller, pinch the small end of the coil around the middle of the
crystal. Remember that the whole thing will have to fit easily in the pipe. You
may want to tape or glue the coil to the crystal so the unit doesn’t fall apart when
you drop it down into the pipe.
8. Here’s the mind bending bit: as with the HHg, these are being made upside down.
The xtal in the Earthpipe points down into the ground. The hollow end of the pipe is the
bottom. The cone shape of the coil flares away from the pointed end. When the pipe is
in the ground, the xtal points down and the cone coil opens upward from the middle of
the xtal, sort of like a dart in a blowgun ;-)
8. I measured the amount of orgonite in an Earthpipe and it’s five ounces, so after
you drop in the pipe in the proper orientation, just spoon in the remaining
orgonite. If you mix it loosely enough, the mass of orgonite will fill in around the
coil and xtal, don’t worry.
9. When you get to the target area, just pound the whole thing down into sufficiently
soft, stone-free ground. I hammer the pipe with a six pound sledge hammer. It
damages the pipe a little but that’s okay. Remember that the orgonite plug is in
the top of the device. This takes advantage of the resonant cavity principle.
10. You need a six pound sledge hammer or so to knock these into the ground. Just
hammer the end of the pipe in that case. If you can find a stream, swamp or estuary you
can probably just push it all the way into the ground.
ETHERIC PIPE BOMB:
This is Greg Brown's concept which has been found expedient for reviving bodies of
water and clarifying them. Greg’s our network’s etheric horticulture consultant and his
He calls them ‘Peace Pipes,’ by the way. Just half-fill any length of empty pipe with orgonite and a single,
towerbuster-type of crystal and toss it in polluted water.
I did an acre-sized pond in Uganda with five pipe bombs, 9 inches long and 7/8" diameter
and a week later the scummy, opaque and stinky water had turned clear, smelled nice and
had no scum at all.
A few weeks later, some Japanese relief workers from the city were seen fishing there.
The size of these things is determined by your own discretion, apparently. We haven’t
found that one size is optimal, just that what we’ve done works.